Fix Ripped Denim with a Simple Sashiko Mending Kit

We all have had that particular, falling sensation: you are grabbing your favorite pair of expensive jeans the ones that have worn eighteen months of use to achieve that ideal, buttery softness, and you hear it. And then there was a sharp pop, then the unmistakable sound of giving way denim. Whether it is a ripped knee or a bursting of buttons, the initial tear is like a losing a major wardrobe expenditure. Once you have invested a lot of money in high quality selvedge or name-brand denim, it hurts to have invested that much in something that fails.

But here is the good news: there is no end of the road at a hole. Actually, even in the realm of conscious consumption and purposeful living, it is a blank canvas behind the rip. It is a chance to have a so-called designer upgrade, which costs a few pennies, in contrast to the cost of a new pair. The Sashiko, an ancient Japanese art, is something that can help you transform your damaged goods and make it a unique piece of wearable art. We are going to discuss the philosophy of visible mending, how to assemble a professional quality Sashiko mending kit without breaking the bank, and why the most fashionable clothes in your wardrobe are sometimes those that you have already mended.

Essential Sashiko mending kit tools laid out with a pair of indigo jeans ready for repair.

The Art of the Visible: Why We Don’t Hide Holes Anymore

The aim of repair was to ensure that the mending is invisible and undetected. We applied some invisible threads and iron on patches, desperately trying to conceal that our clothes were not necessarily of a new production. However, a shift is happening. Being propelled by the Japanese Wabi-sabi philosophy that creates beauty in the flawed and the old, and Mottainai, the philosophy of remorse of not having made good use of something, modern fashion enthusiasts are deciding to showcase their mends instead of conceal them.

fixing clothes is not only a cost-effective necessity anymore; it is a meditative process. You are doing slow fashion when you sit down to mend a garment. You are breaking the cycle of the fast-fashion industry, which entails buying and disposing of items. It has been found out that garments with a life span of 9 months longer may cut their carbon, water and waste footprint to 30 percent. Among the luxury fashion communities, visible mending of jeans has become a status symbol in its own right the wearer has shown that they place value on the quality, longevity and history of the garment over the momentary euphoria of shopping.

Sashiko Mending Kit: Anatomy of the Kit

The Necessary Tools of Denim Rescue

The first step to the Japanese denim repair DIY is to have the appropriate tools. Whereas you would be tempted to go to a convenience store and buy an ordinary sewing kit, high end denim is another story. The normal needles are usually short enough or too brittle to pass through 14oz or 16oz denim without bending. To do it justice, you will be interested in the curation of a particular Sashiko mending kit.

The needle is the beginning of a professional-quality set up. Sashiko needles are significantly longer and heavier than standard embroidery needles, so on the one hand, you can fill the needle with several stitches, and then you can pull it through the fabric. Next is the thread. Traditional Sashiko thread is a non-mercerized cotton that is a matte, six-strand embroidery floss as opposed to the shiny, six-strand embroidery floss on most craft shelves. It is bent to create a very strong one and give it a characteristic rustic feel.

You will also require a palm-thimble--a metal or leather ring that you wear on the middle finger, that is used to force the needle through thick layers, and tracing-paper or tailor-chalk, to mark up your designs. Although these may appear to be specialized items, they are pretty cheap. You can create a high-quality kit with the help of "one-item" coupons at large craft stores, assuming that you are a clever shopper. Numerous hobbyist stores provide considerable discounts (usually 40-50% off) when they sign up to their newsletter, and that is the best time to get your high-end needles or a huge reel of thread at a tiny fraction of the price.

A close-up of hands performing the traditional Sashiko 'Unshin' running stitch to fix ripped denim.

Repairing Jeans with Sashiko Denim

Preparing Your Denim and Patch

When your Sashiko mending kit is prepared it is time to deal with that rip. The Sashiko embroidery technique is fairly rhythmic and very approachable to beginners. Begin by trimming up the edges of the hole--see that you cut out all the too long stragglers that tend to be disorderly, but you need not be too bothered about it. Next, you’ll need a "donor" patch. It is also a great moment to produce an upcycling hack: scraps of an old pair of jeans or a fragment of a tote bag patterned with a canvas can be used.

The Unshin Stitching Process

Put your patch on the inside of the jeans, make sure that it stretches at least an inch all around and over the hole. Pin it securely. At this point, you will start up the unshin--the royal Sashiko "running stitch." The aim is to make minute, almost grains-like stitches. You do not have to hold the thread tight after each stitch, just load a 4-5 stitches on your long needle and then pass the fabric through. This will make sure of even tension so that your jeans do not pile up as you move.

With these rows of stitches overlapping the patch, you are not only covering up a hole but you are actually doing denim patching. You are literally interlacing the new cloth into the old that forms one of the stronger-than-ever repair which is often a stronger weave than the original denim around it. Budget friendly people do not have to purchase complex marking tools, a regular school ruler, and a bit of white chalk are all that are necessary to keep your lines straight and professional.

Street style example of visible mending showcasing a creative Boro-inspired patch on vintage jeans.

Going Beyond the Simple Patch

Once you get into what you are doing you can move past simple lines to the complex realm of Boro stitching denim. Boro are textiles which have been patched, mended to the extent that the original material is barely discernible a gorgeous tapestry of history and usefulness. You may start experimenting with DIY Sashiko designs like Asanoha (the pattern of the hemp leaf) or Seigaiha (blue ocean waves).

These patterns are not to show off, they have a purpose. Some of the geometric patterns are particularly effective in supporting the high-friction points such as the inner thigh or the knees. Change the colors of your threads, maybe a classic white on indigo, or perhaps a vivid red to make it more contemporary, and you can make a custom boutique appearance. To ensure that this hobby is not costly, do not purchase costly pre-printed Sashiko fabric. Rather, find free PDF patterns to download on the Internet. These can be printed and traced onto your denim with a light color pencil or even chalk and you will still have a designer appearance but without the designer cost.

Customizing Your Kit Without The Designer Price Tag

Living cheaply does not imply that you should be using substandard tools. Being a strategic consumer is a good idea when shopping your Sashiko mending kit. Although it may be expensive when one wants to purchase specialized Japanese imports at boutique stores, there are usually bulk bundles at large online market. Indicatively, it would cost much less to purchase a 100-meter skein of thread as compared to purchasing a number of 20-meter packs in case you intend to repair more than one garment.

It is always important to look at sewing supply coupons before clicking buy. Online haberdasheries are also providing cashbacks as browser extensions or huge discounts during the National Craft Month in March. According to another terrific frugal hack, there is the hack of the Upcycled Patch. Rather than purchasing denim scraps labeled as designer, use the material of old flannel shirts, bandanas that have designs, or work clothes that are heavy. Such free materials provide even greater character and personal history to your repair than the stuff that was purchased on a shelf.

Conclusion

Mending nowadays is not only about saving money, it is also about reconnecting with things that one owns. You become more than a passive consumer, you become an active producer by learning how to use a Sashiko mending kit. You are deciding to consider your wardrobe as a long-term investment, a collection of items that get increasingly beautiful and personal with each stitch you sew on to it.

In a society where we are continually bombarded to go out and buy something new and keep up, there is something truly subversive in sitting down to mend a much-loved pair of jeans. It is a celebration of mindful living and a tribute to the fact that the most fashionable pieces are not those displayed on a mannequin, they are the ones with the most stories, have the longest lives, and have the prettiest stitches.

FAQ Section

Is it possible to use a normal sewing needle to do Sashiko on denim?

Not advisable; the thickness of the high-end denim needs a longer and stronger Sashiko needle, to avoid the needle bending or snapping during the repair.

Is the mending noticeable and thus uncomfortable when wearing the jeans?

Not if done correctly. The patch is flexible and will eventually shape to your shape by keeping the tension of even stitches and a soft thread is used, preferably of cotton.

Is repairing the jeans or getting a new one on sale cheaper?

The cost of repairing is far less. The price of a good Sashiko mending kit and thread is about 10-20 dollars, and easily capable of mending dozens of holes, yet even the better denim hardly goes below 100 even on sale.

Will my Sashiko-mended jeans be washed at the machine?

Yes, though to be able to last long, inside-out and cold, gentle cycle. It is always better to air-dry to ensure that the thread that has been hand sewed does not shrink or fray too soon.

What are the best prices of Sashiko thread?

The best value will be found with multi-color bundles on large online stores or with the help of rewards points and signup-to-newsletter codes on online craft shops.